3 WAYS TO GET RID OF ANNOYING AIPTASIA

3 WEGE, UM LÄSTIGE GLASROSEN IM MEERWASSERAQUARIUM LOSZUWERDEN
Diane Enkelmann
Diane Enkelmann

Aiptasia have poisonous cells (cnidocytes) in their tentacles, which they often use to sting neighboring corals. Due to their ability to reproduce asexually from just a few cells, they can multiply quickly and become a nuisance.
Below we show you three ways to quickly get rid of aiptasia in your tank!

#1 For light infestation: seal Aiptasia

If you discover individual aiptasia in your aquarium, you can try simply gluing them shut. You can use a saltwater-resistant two-component adhesive or reef mortar. After mixing the adhesive or mortar, you can apply the mixture directly to the aiptasia and press it onto the reef rock underneath.

The method of gluing is effective, but it is time-consuming and relatively expensive. It also doesn't look particularly nice if your reef structure is covered in bright spots of glue. This is why this method is only suitable for a light infestation of Aiptasia to get the problem under control.

#2 The chemical club: spray away glass roses

Another way to get rid of the aiptasia in your tank is to squirt them away with a syringe and a cannula. Various remedies are used for this. You can either make them yourself or use ready-made products from various suppliers, such as Elimi-Aiptas.

Hydrochloric acid (33%) or caustic soda (32%) are also suitable for combating Aiptasia. You can easily get both solutions from the pharmacy. Please note that acids and alkalis are highly corrosive. Therefore, always wear gloves and safety goggles. You should use a maximum of 5 ml of acid or alkali per 100 liters of aquarium water per day, otherwise the pH value in your tank may change.
Another option is to use calcium hydroxide (CaOH). However, this does not produce a liquid solution, but rather a viscous paste. To do this, take about a tablespoon of the calcium hydroxide powder and mix it with a little water.

The paste is then filled into the injection syringe, but this time you must not use a cannula. Before adding the calcium hydroxide paste, it is advisable to switch off the flow pumps. Some of the paste is now placed from a distance onto the mouth disc of the Aiptasia, whereupon it begins to take in the paste through its throat. A short time later it dissolves.

The same applies here: You should add a maximum of 5 ml of the mixture per 100 litres of aquarium water per day.

#3 Biological weapons: natural predators

Mother Nature has also come up with something for your fight against Aiptasia. There are several predators that get on the anemones' nerves. Here are some recommendations:

  • Berghia stephanieae (Aiptasia-eating slug)
  • Lysmata wurdemanni (peppermint shrimp)
  • Acreichthys tomentosus (kelp filefish)

Aiptasia eater

Biological control of aiptasia: the tang filefish can help

Biological control of Aiptasia using predators is the only way to solve the problem in the long term. Breeds are now available for all three species mentioned here. If possible, you should therefore use these. Please find out about the care requirements of the respective animal before buying.

B. stephanieae is a food specialist that only eats Aiptasia. However, you need a few of these animals for their Aiptasia-eating effect to show. It is recommended to keep at least 5 to 10 animals per 300 litres of aquarium volume.

Both peppermint shrimp and tang filefish can attack corals and eat their polyps under certain circumstances. For L. wurdemanni, a stocking of at least three animals per 100 liters of water volume is recommended. If possible, you should try not to feed the animals extra. This increases the likelihood that they will attack Aiptasia. Even after the Aiptasia have apparently completely disappeared, the animals should remain in the tank, as they do not usually completely eliminate the plague, but only keep it under control.

Lysmata shrimps eat Aiptasia, but can also nibble on other corals in the aquarium

Lysmata shrimps eat Aiptasia, but can also nibble on other corals

There are also a few species of angelfish and butterflyfish that can be used successfully against Aiptasia. However, due to their size and the amount of space they require, they are not very suitable for keeping in a saltwater aquarium.

Aiptasia prophylaxis

There are various precautionary measures you can take to reduce the risk of an aiptasia infestation from the outset. Firstly, examine each newly acquired stone and coral offshoot carefully. If, for example, an aiptasia is only sitting on the edge of the offshoot stone, you can simply snip the part off with pliers. Aiptasia also reproduce particularly well if a lot of powdered food is added to the aquarium. If you have an aiptasia problem, switch to soluble or direct feeding.

Only the early bird catches the Aiptasia!

Ultimately, Aiptasia can hardly be avoided in saltwater aquariums. Their ability to multiply from a single cell means that they will appear in every aquarium sooner or later - even if the most thorough preventive measures are taken. Nevertheless, there is no reason to panic. As soon as you discover the first Aiptasia, react with one or more of the countermeasures mentioned above and the Aiptasia, even if they are visible here and there, will hardly cause you any problems. The only important thing is that you react early.

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